This was one of the greatest experiences in a week full of great experiences! This past year (2015), I actually decided to forego the White Truffle hunt, still swooning from the previous year, and instead went off to explore Cinque Terre by train for the day. I have written about Cinque Terre elsewhere, and yes, it is beautiful, and the weather was stunningly perfect (80 degrees and sunny), so it wasn’t a bad trade off, since I had never been to Cinque Terre, and it was only a little over an hour by train (with one stop and a change in La Spezia to get on the local line into the Cinque Terre.
Instead, I will share with you photos and stories from my Day 5 of the regular class, from 2014, which is the same White Truffle hunt, followed by a White Truffle lunch at Savini Tartufi!
Meet Cristiano Savini, of Savini Tartufi, located about 30 minutes to the southeast of Toscana Saporita, not far from Lucca. We had a beautiful mild autumn day when we visited in 2014 with our group of students. Soon, we were off walking in the woods with Cristiano and Giotto, on our very own White Truffle hunt! “Just pay attention to your surroundings,” Cristiano cautioned. Sure, we were in the woods, it had rained the previous day, so it was a bit muddy (in fact, the entire group had to head into Pisa the evening before to purchase boots from a little store so we would be able to hike in the muddy, hilly forest). “Not just the mud, the hunters,” he told us. These woods in Tuscany are full of wild game, and hence, cacciatori or hunters out looking for tonight’s dinner! “If you hear shots, just be cautious,” he said. Great, we could be someone’s dinner, I thought! There were several times we heard gunshots in the distance, but nothing threatening. Just part of life in Tuscany!
The story of how a dog becomes a “Truffle Dog” goes back to when they are puppies. Cristiano explained that the typical dogs are a mixed breed, he called Giotto a “Bassettina,” a Bassett-Hound mix, I presume. A stout, stocky, yet friendly dog, Giotto must have been at least 40 pounds, and watching him dig through the dirt and roots to uncover the prized White Truffles, I likened his jaws to a Stihl chainsaw tearing up the roots to get the truffles, that can retail for over $2,000 per pound in the States!
When they are tiny puppies, the folks at Savini Tartufi, and presumably other top Truffle agencies rub the mother dog’s nipples with white truffle, so the young puppies get used to that unmistakeable scent and equate it with sustenance. As they get a little older, they are taught to play with a ball that has a little bit of white truffle inside, Cristiano explained. You’ll want to teach them to fetch items which contain that scent from very early on! In a matter of a few months, you’ll know which puppies are cut out to be trained to become full-fledged Truffle Dogs and part of the hunting family!
These dogs are taken for walks in the woods regularly, with the ball containing the truffle inside. First, the walks start out as a game of fetch. The dog retrieves the ball with the truffle. As time goes on, Cristiano would occasionally hide the ball and Giotto (or any pup he is training) would have to look for it. Having been trained to seek out that distinct fragrance from as far back as they can remember, a sure sign of a Truffle Dog is one who will walk through the woods, with Cristiano repeating, “Dov’e’ Giotto?” “Where is it, Giotto?” while the dog is sniffing for that scent and uncover the ball, at first under some leaves and branches. Soon, the ball would be buried under several inches of dirt.
Eventually, once the dog has this down, and truffle season is upon us (autumn months in Italy), the new Truffle Dog goes on his first hunt. Cristiano starts calling out, “Dov’e, Giotto,” and the dog knows to start looking for “the ball.” What he eventually finds instead is his first truffle! Cristiano explains that some days are great, and others not. Kind of like fishing, or hunting, or anything for that matter! It depends on the elements, the humidity, and how many other truffle hunters and their dogs may have beaten you to the area you are hunting. Lots of factors, but if you know your trade like Cristiano, and Giotto, chances are you won’t go home empty-handed!
Truffle Dogs don’t get to eat the truffles, sadly! This is a strategy to keep them motivated. They go and find them, but they don’t get to eat any, like dangling the carrot! It would be a pretty expensive mistake to train your truffle dog to eat the truffles! Most dogs work for 9-10 years, then they get to retire and reside on the estate, where they are well taken care of, and surely as a thank you for all their years of service, well fed, Italian-style!
Our 2014 group with Giotto in the front looking at Sandra and Cristiano.
Until last year, Savini Tartufi held the record for the largest White Truffle ever discovered in Italy!
Beautiful late October Tuscan woods where we went hunting for Tartufi Bianchi!
